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Newfoundland

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:'' This is about the island in the North Atlantic Ocean. For the Canadian province formerly (and still colloquially) known as Newfoundland, see Newfoundland and Labrador. For the dominion that preceded it, see Dominion of Newfoundland. For other meanings of Newfoundland, see Newfoundland (disambiguation).'' {| border=1 cellpadding=4 cellspacing=0 align=right width=250 class=toccolours style="margin: 0 0 1em 1em; border-collapse: collapse;" |- !colspan=2 align=center|Image:Flag of Newfoundland.svg 175px|Newfoundland flag |- !colspan=2 align=center| Flag of Newfoundland and Labrador#Newfoundland Tricolour Newfoundland Tricolour Flag
''(unofficial)'' |- !colspan=2 align=center bgcolor="#9999ff"|Newfoundland |- |colspan=2 align=center|Image:Newfoundland From Space.jpg 200px |- !colspan=2 bgcolor="#9999ff"|Geography |- |Surface area Area:||111,390 square kilometre kmÂ² |- |Water area:|| 7,797 square kilometre kmÂ² |- |Coastline:.html">kilometre km |- |Highest Point:||Lewis Hills
814m |- |Longest River:||Exploits River
246km |- |Admin HQ:||St. John's, Newfoundland St. John's |- !colspan=2 bgcolor="#9999ff"|Demographics |- |Population(2001):||485,066 |- |Major Ethnic Groups :|| Irish people Irish, English people English, Some French people French |- |Largest City:||St. John's, Newfoundland St. John's
99,182 (city)
172,915 (metro) |- !colspan=2 bgcolor="#9999ff"|Politics |- |colspan=2 align=center|Government of Newfoundland & Labrador
http://www.gov.nl.ca |- |Members of the House of Commons:||6 (of 7 in NL and 308 total) |- |Members of the Senate of Canada:||6 (of 6 in NL and 105 total) |- |Members of the Newfoundland and Labrador House of Assembly House of Assembly:||44 (of 48 total) |} '''Newfoundland''' (French language French: ''Terre-Neuve''; Irish language Irish: ''Talamh an Ã‰isc''; Latin: ''Terra Nova'') is a large island off the northeast coast of North America, and the most populous part of the Canada Canadian province of Newfoundland and Labrador. Newfoundland is often referred as "The Middle Of The North Atlantic", but it is actually more than 1000km away from it. The island of Newfoundland (originally called ''Terra Nova'') was most likely first named by the Italian John Cabot (Giovanni Caboto) in 1497, which would make it the oldest European name in North America. The province where this island is located was also called ''Newfoundland'' up until 2001, when Geographical renaming its name was changed to ''Newfoundland and Labrador'' (the postal abbreviation was simultaneously changed from NF to NL). Newfoundland is separated from the Labrador Peninsula by the Strait of Belle Isle and from Cape Breton Island by the Cabot Strait. It blocks the mouth of the Saint Lawrence River, creating the Gulf of Saint Lawrence, the world's largest estuary. Newfoundland's nearest neighbour is the small France French collectivitÃ© d'outre-mer overseas community of Saint-Pierre and Miquelon. It is 111,390 km² in area, making it the List of islands by size world's 15th largest island, and List of Canadian islands by area Canada's fourth largest island. The provincial capital, St. John's, Newfoundland and Labrador St. John's, is found on the southeastern tip of the island. Cape Spear, just south of the capital, is Canada's easternmost point. The island of Newfoundland has an approximate population of 530 000. Newfoundland is pronounced by Newfoundlanders as "newf'nd-land'" (with the accent on "land", it rhymes with under-stand') and it is never pronounced phoenetically (i.e. New-found-land) except by non-natives. Newfoundland has a dialect of English language English known as Newfoundland English, a dialect of French language French known as Newfoundland French, and a dialect of Irish language Irish known as Newfoundland Irish.

First inhabitants
The recent natives on Newfoundland were the probable ancestors of the historical Beothuk inhabitants at the time of European contact. Beothuk means "people" in the Beothuk language. The origins of the Beothuks are uncertain, but it appears that they were a native group that came from Labrador. The culture is now extinct, remembered only in museum, historical and archaeological records. Shanawdithit, the last known Beothuk (a woman), died in St. John's in 1829. It is likely that the natives described by the Vikings as skraelings were Beothuk inhabitants of Labrador and Newfoundland. The first conflicts between Europeans and native peoples may have occurred around 1006 at L'Anse aux Meadows when parties of Norseman Norsemen attempted to establish permanent settlements along the coast of Newfoundland. According to Old Norse language Norse sagas, the native Beothuk (called skraelings or skraelingars by the Norse) responded so ferociously that the newcomers eventually withdrew and apparently gave up their original intentions to settle. When other Europeans arrived, beginning with John Cabot in 1497, contact with the Beothuks was established. Estimates of the number of Beothuks on the island at this time vary, ranging from 1,000 to 5,000. As European settlement became year-round and expanded to new areas of the coast the area available to the Beothuks to harvest the marine resources they relied upon was diminished. By the beginning of the nineteenth century there were few Beothuks remaining, many having been killed in misunderstandings with settlers or having died as a result of starvation and disease. Government attempts to open a dialogue with the native peoples of Newfoundland came too late to save them.

Discovery, colonization, and settlement
Image:Cooks_Karte_von_Neufundland.jpg thumb|250px|[[James Cook's 1775 Chart of Newfoundland]] Newfoundland is the site of the only authenticated Norsemen Norse settlement in North America, discovered by Norway Norwegian explorer Helge Ingstad Dr. Helge Ingstad and his archaeologist wife, Anne Stine Ingstad, at L'Anse aux Meadows in 1960. The site of a multi-year archaeology archaeological dig, the settlement dating to more than 500 years before Christopher Columbus contains the earliest European structures in North America. Named a World Heritage site by UNESCO, it is believed to be the legendary Vinland settlement of explorer Leif Ericson. After the Norse, the first European visitors to Newfoundland were Portuguese, Spanish, French and English migratory fishermen. Late in the 17th century came Ireland Irish fisherman fishermen, who named the island '''Talamh an Ã‰isc''', meaning "land of the fish", or "the fishing grounds" in Irish language Irish Gaelic. This was to foreshadow the centuries of importance of Newfoundland's offshore fishing waters. Newfoundland was visited by Giovanni Caboto (John Cabot) in 1497, who landed near the Strait of Belle Isle, although local tradition has his landfall at Bonavista. It was probably also sighted by Giovanni da Verrazano in 1524, whose expedition was financed by the citizens of Lyon, under the auspices of Francis I of France King FranÃ§ois I of France. In 1583, when Sir Humphrey Gilbert formally claimed Newfoundland as a colony of England, he found numerous English, French and Portuguese vessels in St. John's. However there was no permanent population and Gilbert was lost at sea during his return voayge, thereby ending any plans of settlement. On July 5, 1610, John Guy set sail from Bristol, England with 39 other colonists for Cuper's Cove, Newfoundland and Labrador Cuper's Cove. This, and other early attempts at permanent settlement failed to make a profit for the English investors, but some settlers remained anyway forming the very earliest European population on the island. By 1620 the fishermen of England's West Country had excluded other nations from most of the east coast of Newfoundland, while fishermen from France dominated the island's south coast and Northern Peninsula. After 1763, with the Treaty of Paris (1763) Treaty of Paris, the French ceded control of south and north shores of the island to the British, keeping only the nearby islands of St. Pierre and Miquelon located in the fish-rich Grand Banks off the south coast. Despite some early settlements by the English, permanent, year-round settlement of Newfoundland of migratory fishery workers was discouraged by the British. But with the geographic remoteness of its isolated harbours and convenience of year-round access to the fish stations without having to make the bi-annual voyage across the ocean, permanent settlement increased rapidly by the late 18th century, peaking in the early years of the 19th century. The French name for the island is '''Terre Neuve''', while the name ''Newfoundland'' is one of the oldest European place names in Canada in continuous geography geographical and cartography cartographical use, dating from a 1502 letter, and clearly stated in the following early poem: '''A Skeltonic verse Skeltonicall continued ryme, in praise of my New-found-Land''' :Although in cloaths, company, buildings faire :With England, New-found-land cannot compare: :Did some know what contentment I found there, :Alwayes enough, most times somewhat to spare, :With little paines, lesse toyle, and lesser care, :Exempt from taxings, ill newes, Lawing, feare, :If cleane, and warme, no matter what you weare, :Healthy, and wealthy, if men carefull are, :With much-much more, then I will now declare, : (I say) if some wise men knew what this were : (I doe beleeue) they'd live no other where. ::From 'The First Booke of ''Qvodlibets''' ::Composed and done at ''Harbor-Grace'' in ::''Britaniola'', anciently called ''Newfound-Land'' ::by Governor Robert Hayman - 1628. Image:Carlb-fogo-newfoundland-fishery-2002.jpg thumb|360px|right|A Newfoundland fishing [[outport]] The European immigrants who settled in Newfoundland brought their knowledge, beliefs, loyalties and prejudices with them, but the society they built in the New World was unlike the ones they had left, and different from the ones other immigrants would build on the American mainland. As a fish-exporting society, Newfoundland was in contact with many places around the Atlantic rim, but its geographic location and political distinctiveness also isolated it from its closest neighbors in Canada and the United States. So much so, that this isolation can be felt even today. Internally, most of its population was spread widely around a rugged coastline in small outport settlements, many of them a long distance from larger centers of population and isolated for long periods by winter ice or bad weather. These conditions had an effect on the culture the immigrants had brought with them and generated new ways of thinking and acting, giving Newfoundland and Labrador a wide variety of distinctive customs, beliefs, stories, songs, and dialects. The First World War had a powerful and lasting effect on the society. From a population of about a quarter of a million, 5,482 men went overseas. Nearly 1,500 were killed and 2,300 wounded. On July 1, 1916, at Beaumont-Hamel, France, 753 men of the Royal Newfoundland Regiment went over the top of a trench. The casualties were staggering; the next morning, only 68 men answered the roll-call. Newfoundland had lost about one-quarter of its young men in WWI and it has been suggested that this loss of so many men, proportionally speaking, in the prime of their lives contributed to the economic collapse that was to ultimately influence confederation with Canada. Even now, when the rest of Canada celebrates the founding of the country on July 1, many Newfoundlanders take part in solemn ceremonies of remembrance. World War II also had a lasting impact on Newfoundland. In particular, the war ushered in an American presence at the military bases at Argentia, Stephenville, Goose Bay and St. John's. Interaction with the bases helped make cash a more widespread economic medium and consolidated a traditional admiration for America contrasted with apprehension of mainland Canada that is often forgotten today. It is also believed that American soldiers coined the word "Newfie". Newfoundland and Labrador is the youngest province in Canada, enjoying the status of a country until 1949. That year, the population voted by a margin of approximately one percent to join Canada, whose history, economy, culture and political institutions were significantly different. The referendum campaign was bitterly fought and interests in both Canada and Britain favoured and supported confederation with Canada. This is exemplified in the role of Jack Pickersgill, a western Canadian native and politican, who worked with the confederation camp during the campaign. Religion played a significant role in the final analysis as well with the Catholic church lobbying for continued independence. Financial incentives played their part, particularly the "baby bonus" which promised Newfoundlanders a cash sum for each child in a family. The Confederates were led by the charismatic Joseph Smallwood, a former radio broadcaster who had developed socialist political inclinations while working for a socialist newspaper in New York. His policies as premier would assume a form closer to liberalism than socialism. Mr. Smallwood led Newfoundland for decades as the elected premier following confederation and achieved a "cult of personality" amongst his many supporters that persisted long after his political defeat. Indeed, some homes actually had pictures of Joey in their living rooms in a place of prominence. It has been suggested that some members of the public regarded financial incentives like the baby bonus as the direct products of Smallwood's benevolence rather than their right as Canadian citizens. The province's provincial flag, designed by Newfoundland artist Christopher Pratt, was officially adopted by the provincial legislature on May 28, 1980. Labrador has its own unofficial flag, created in 1973 by Mike Martin, former MLA for Labrador South. There is also an unofficial "Pink, White and Green" flag of nineteenth century origins. It is now flown outside many Newfoundland homes, although it is mistaken by many tourists as the Irish flag.

A nation?
Image:Newfoundlandflag.gif thumb|300px|right|Colonial flag of Newfoundland Newfoundland and Labrador is the most ethnically homogeneous province in Canada. It has many totally unique cultural practices that are the product of centuries of relatively independent development. It has its famous Newfoundland English dialect, often jokingly referred to as being difficult enough to understand at times that it may as well be its own language. Newfoundland also demonstrates a separate and distinct democratic practice emphasizing the individual member over the party, has had a unique experience with institutionalized religion in the Canadian context and appears to employ cultural mores in day-to-day interaction markedly different from the rest of Canada provided one is paying close attention. These mores emphasize casual familiarity rather than formal respect irrespective of the size of the local population. They are apparent in St. John's, the second largest urban centre in Atlantic Canada for instance. Finally, Newfoundlanders consistently rank the highest on polls ascertaining identification with province over country. The results are generally in the seventies to eighties favouring provincial identification. This is markedly higher than similar polls in Quebec, though those polls are clearly affected by the sovereignty issue. The Newfoundland polls need not be read as indicating a separatist consciousness or even an emerging one. Rather, they simply indicate that many Newfoundlanders tend to naturally see themselves as Newfoundlanders who are Canadians and not vice versa. The identities are not irreconcilable but is instructive to consider the use of "nationalistic" appeals by leaders in provincial politics since Confederation.

The Ode To Newfoundland (anthem)
Newfoundland is the only province to formally adopt its own anthem. ''This anthem continues to be heard at public events. It was written in the late 19th century.'' When sun rays crown thy pine clad hills,
And summer spreads her hand,
When silvern voices tune thy rills,
We love thee smiling land,
We love thee, we love thee
We love thee smiling land. When spreads thy cloak of shimm'ring white,
At winter's stern command,
Thro' shortened day and starlit night,
We love thee frozen land,
We love thee, we love thee,
We love thee frozen land. When blinding storm gusts fret thy shore,
And wild waves lash thy strand,
Thro' sprindrift swirl and tempest roar,
We love thee windswept land,
We love thee, we love thee,
We love thee windswept land. As loved our fathers, so we love,
Where once they stood we stand,
Their prayer we raise to heav'n above,
God guard thee, Newfoundland,
God guard thee, God guard thee,
God guard thee, Newfoundland.

Points of interest and major settlements
Image:Carlb-nfld-codflakes.jpg left|thumb|250px|Cod, the traditional mainstay of Newfoundland fisheries Being one of the first places discovered in the New World, Newfoundland has a rich history. St. John's, Newfoundland St. John's is considered to be the oldest city in English speaking North America. Newfoundland is home to two national parks. Gros Morne National Park is located on the west coast of Newfoundland and was named a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1987 due to its complex geology and remarkable scenery. It is the largest national park in Atlantic Canada at 1 805 kmÂ² (697 sq. mi.). Terra Nova National Park, on the island's east side, preserves the rugged geography of the Bonavista Bay region and allows visitors to explore the historic interplay of land, sea and man. Stephenville, Newfoundland and Labrador Stephenville, a town of about 8000, once served as an airport base for the US Army and Air Force in the early 1940s to 1966. It is about 32 km (20 miles) north of its former train station, which is surrounded by the town of Stephenville Crossing, Newfoundland and Labrador Stephenville Crossing. Also on the West Coast, Corner Brook is situated in the Bay of Islands, Newfoundland and Labrador Bay of Islands region. The major industry in Corner Brook is newsprint manufacturing, and is serviced by the Corner Brook Pulp and Paper Mill. Sandy Point, Newfoundland and Labrador Sandy Point, which is located in St. George's Bay and north of the town of St. George's, Newfoundland and Labrador St. George's, was the first and largest settlement of the west coast. However, the last settler, Alphonsus Swyers, was forced to abandon it in 1973. Image:Nfldmap.gif 300 px|thumb|Island of Newfoundland Barachois Brook Park is a provincial park that is considered to be a model forest. Marble Mountain is a major attraction in the winter for skiers. It is said to be the best skiing east of the Rocky Mountains. In March, the annual seal hunt (of the harp seal) takes place. Newfoundland is also host to a well-recognized university, Memorial University of Newfoundland, based in St. John's, Newfoundland and Labrador St. John's. Newfoundland, 2 900 km (1800 miles) from Ireland, is the only place outside Europe to have its own distinctive name in the Irish language; Talamh an Ã‰isc, literally translated to English as 'Land of the Fish'. Newfoundland has its own time zone, set apart from the North American East Coast by one half hour, instead of the traditional one hour difference. '''Largest communities''' (2001 population) # St. John's, Newfoundland and Labrador St. John's (98,182) # Mount Pearl, Newfoundland and Labrador Mount Pearl (24,964) # Corner Brook, Newfoundland and Labrador Corner Brook (20,103) # Conception Bay South, Newfoundland and Labrador Conception Bay South (19,772) # Grand Falls-Windsor, Newfoundland and Labrador Grand Falls-Windsor (13,340) # Gander, Newfoundland and Labrador Gander (9,651) # Paradise, Newfoundland and Labrador Paradise (9,598) # Stephenville, Newfoundland and Labrador Stephenville (7,109) # Marystown, Newfoundland and Labrador Marystown (5,908) # Portugal Cove-St. Philip's, Newfoundland and Labrador Portugal Cove-St. Philip's (5,866) # Torbay, Newfoundland and Labrador Torbay (5,474) # Bay Roberts, Newfoundland and Labrador Bay Roberts (5,237) # Clarenville, Newfoundland and Labrador Clarenville (5,104) # Deer Lake, Newfoundland and Labrador Deer Lake (4,769) # Carbonear, Newfoundland and Labrador Carbonear (4,759) # Channel-Port aux Basques, Newfoundland and Labrador Channel-Port aux Basques (4,637) # Placentia, Newfoundland and Labrador Placentia (4,426) # Bonavista, Newfoundland and Labrador Bonavista (4,021) # Bishop's Falls, Newfoundland and Labrador Bishop's Falls (3,688)

Further reading
*Prowse, D.W. 2002. ''A History of Newfoundland''. Boulder Publications, Portugal Cove, Newfoundland. *Neary, Peter. 1996. ''Newfoundland in the North Atlantic world, 1929-1949''. McGill-Queen's University Press, Montreal, Quebec. *Gibbons, Henry K. 1997. ''The Myth and Mystery of John Cabot: The Discoverer of North America'', Marten Cat Publishers, Port Aux Basques, Newfoundland. *Harris, Michael. 1992. ''Rare Ambition: The Crosbies of Newfoundland''. Penguin. ISBN 0-14-023220-6 :::Vintage literature * Charles Pedley, ''History of Newfoundland'', (London, 1863) * Philip Tocque, ''Newfoundland as it Was and Is'', (London, 1878) * Joseph Hatton and Moses Harvey, ''Newfoundland: Its History and Present Condition'', (Lonson, 1883) * Arnold Kennedy, ''Sport and Adventure in Newfoundland and West Indies'', (London, 1885) * D. W. Prowse, ''History of Newfoundland'', (second edition, London, 1897) * Moses Harvey, ''Newfoundland, England's Oldest Colony'', (London, 1897) * F. E. Smith, ''The Story of Newfoundland'', (London, 1901) * Beckles Wilson, ''The Truth About Newfoundland, The Tenth Island'', (second edition, London, 1901) * J. P. Howley, ''Mineral Resources of Newfoundland'', (St. John's, 1909) * P. T. McGrath, ''Newfound in 1911'', (London, 1911) * Kevin Major, ''As Near To Heaven by Sea'', (Toronto, 2001) * John Gimlette, ''Theatre of Fish'', (Hutchinson, London, 2005). ISBN 0-09-179519-2

References
{{note|1}}Renouf, M.A.P. 1999 Prehistory of Newfoundland Hunter-Gatherers: Extinctions or Adaptations? ''World Archaeology'' 30: 403-420.

See also
*Newfoundland Irish *Bacalao *List of communities in Newfoundland and Labrador *List of people of Newfoundland and Labrador *Flag of Newfoundland and Labrador

External links

- Government of Newfoundland and Labrador.
- Newfoundland and Labrador Heritage (website from the Memorial University of Newfoundland, funded by the Government of Newfoundland and Labrador and the Atlantic Canada Opportunities Agency)
- Newfoundland and Labrador Tourism
- Newfoundland: The Most Irish Place Outside of Ireland
- Newfoundland and Labrador Provincial Archives
- Terra Nova National Park
- Newfoundland History (extensive site from Marianopolis College)
- Statistics Canada 2001 Census Information
- Religion, Society, and Culture in Newfoundland and Labrador
- Newfoundland and Labrador Heritage

Commercial links

- NF Interactive
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